Tuesday, June 24, 2008

Vintage Racer Killed In High-Speed Crash At Mosport Raceway

This weekend weekend of bad motorsports keeps getting worse. Yesterday, Scott Kalitta. Today, Dino Crescentini, a ten-year veteran of vintage racing, died at Mosport International Raceway in Bowmanville, Ontario, when the Wolf Dallara Can-Am car he was driving — a car once owned by Canadian industrialist and Formula One team owner Walter Wolf and driven in the 1977 Can-Am Series by the legendary Canadian Gilles Villeneuve — apparently went sideways at very high speed. Crescentini was participating in a race as part of the 29th International Vintage Racing Festival at the track. Inspector Paul Hamilton of the Durham Regional Police tells us
"...[the driver] was heading northbound from corner six at Mosport. After this corner is a long straightaway and at some point his vehicle became airborne at an extremely high rate of speed and rolled end-over-end. The driver was transported to Bowmanville hospital where he succumbed to his injuries."

Crescentini had been involved in vintage racing for more than 10 years.

Crescentini was an all-round sportsman. He was a member of the San Marino (Italy) bobsled team that competed at the 1994 Lillehammer Olympics.

My thought go out to him and his family, looks like he led a full life and left us flat out in his racecar. RIP and if you see Senna up there say hi to him for me.....

Sunday, June 22, 2008

Cage work finnaly begun!

Spent all day on Saturday working on my friends Dimitri's E36 race car assembling his new rear suspension setup. It was SOOO FREAKIN hot!!! Must of been like 110 at least! We got thru the day drinking lots of water and sweating about twice that and finished his car.

Started sunday by watching F1 with My mom and my stepdad. GO MASSA!! Go Senna!

Then it was back to working the the OVEN they call the valley. Today we towed my car to the shop with Dimitri's X5. Which we like to call the ultimate tow vehicle! I wish it was mine.... the pair looks so good, don't they?

I decided to start work on the cage from back to front. That is to say I will start in the trunk and slowly work my way to the engine bay.

First order of business was to remove the awkward bar spanning across the 2 down tubes. I cut it out with the mighty sawzall then ground down the nub and painted it.

After grinding.....
after all painted up!
Next I used the same tube I just cut out to serve as my strut tube. You might ask me why no baseplate? Well I considered it, but as you might be able to see in the pictures the metal on that strut tower is VERY thick around 1/8". So I decided the best thing would be just to weld the tube directly on the strut tower. I will not be using coilovers so there really is not much load in this area. As my "downbar X" will be welded to my strut tube In case of a roll over the load will be shared by both mounting points. I did not design or install the original cage (ireland Eng. did) or else this whole area would of been very different. I'm just "modifing and adding" to the existing cage so keep that in mind.

Now after I welding in the "strut tower tube" I added the "diff tubes".

Quick flex test of this area I did today- I jacked the car up from the diff mount and I could actually see the floor board moving up or "bowing" from the center maybe 1-2mm at least. I was surprised by the amount of flex I observed! Now all the suspension forces that come thru the rear wheels make there way into the chassis thru the suspension arm into the subframe and into the car thru the subframe mounts. The other load path is thru the spring pads. The third and last location is the diff mount and the suspension loads and diff power "torquing" that might occur all transfer into this area.

TO address this I have seen this done many different ways. The diff mounts in 2 points on what basically is a square tube that spans in-between the strut towers along the floor. So the best solution would be to cut the tubing open (ala e36 subframe tie-ins) weld a plate then a tube sticking out. Then plate cloe the hole and weld you connecting tubes to it..... that's a bit too involved that I'm willing to go right now.

Another way I have seen is to tubes meeting in the middle of the trunk.....this seemed silly as the diff mounts in 2 spots and not is the center.

this pic from another 2002 race car build shows the diff mount and the tubing well.
I decided to go with 2 tubes mounting to the area directly above the mounts. Pretty much like the pic above. Now I understand I'm not actually connecting the tubes directly to the diff mounts but the large plate and the 2 tubes will greatly increase the stiffness of the area and now any loads will be transfered up into the cage instead of bending the floor.....

There are 10,000 to cook potatoes...this is just how I cooked mine.
Also this leaves a nice space in the middle to mount the battery!
here you can see the diff mounting bolts in relation to the tubes. I used 1.5"x.120 wall DOM for the strut tube and 1 1/4"x.120 wall DOM for the diff tubes.
....and that's as far as we got in today slighty cooler 100+ degree heatwave......

Why do I wait till the summer to start working on things like these?

Sunday, June 15, 2008

Rollin' again & out with all the old wires...

Not much work done this weekend in-between me taking break all the time to watch the LeMans race.....I still can't get over how beautiful those Peugeot's are....


Put the car on it's wheels and rolled it out of the garage for the first time in over a year...wow time flies.

Got the car ready to take to over to the official bmw1602.com shop.....

http://www.bmwmbenz.com/

It a great little independent BMW & Mercedes repair shop where my good friend Dimitri works. Luckily the owner likes me and has allowed us to work on our race cars after hours and on weekends when the shop is closed. This is invaluable as it gives me access to lifts, factory tools, etc..... So I'm now thankfully listing them as one of my sponsors.

So next week the car goes over there so I can start work on the cage (he has a shear and a drill press with a notcher etc... I will probably tack weld the cage together over there then take it back to my garage for final welding.

Meanwhile I happily removed ALL of the pre-historic wiring from the car. Thankfully since the car is ancient there is not much to get rid of. I will be rewiring everything to a new fresh switch panel with circuit breakers and switches.

Oh yeah.....after a quick week of unemployment I now have a new job.....(unfortunately no increase in pay)

pre-historic wiring
OUT WITH THE OLD.......maybe a good 5lbs. too! .....

Saturday, June 7, 2008

suspention assembled.....

Finally got around to buying some POR-15. This stuff is great! It's like the poor man's powder coat! It is very toxic and I was told to use a mask, gloves etc...It dries to a hard finish and make sure to put a piece of plastic when you close the can or the paint will be weld the can shut! Don't get this paint on your skin you will have a hell of a time getting it off!
It brushes on and then melts so you can't see any brush strokes. I will be painting the engine bay with this.....


I decided to bolt everything up so I can put the car on the ground and rolling so I could take it to my friends shop to start working on the cage.....he has a notcher there so I will be fitting and tacking everything in there then bringing it back to do final welding here in the garage. I don't have a floor mount drill press here so It's easier just to do all the tube cutting/ffitting and tacking there then bring it back.....

Used new SKF bearings packed them up with lots of Mobil1 sythetic bearing grease......

Assembled adjuster with Ireland poly bushings.....

completed rear assembly
bolted on subframe
New Myle ball joints
new tie and center rods
bolted on vented rotor
All done and ready to roll! Rolling chassis Time.....