Here the Accusump installI'd been thinking about an accusump for awhile after reading about an install. I checked out
and after reading the info there I decided right then to do it.
I got some parts off of ebay and the rest from pegasus race supply. I was able to the whole project for around
$300.00! Pretty good! I had some left over hose from my oil cooler install and it was exactly the length that I needed!
You will need:
installation brackets #24-200 $17.50
2 quart accusump #24-026 $165.00
oil line Check valve #24-280 $17.50
Manual Valve (#24-260) $10.00
Around 6ft of Oil hose but everybody length will vary...
all the necessary earls plumbing fittings....$ YMMV.
First off ... RTFM !!!Click here to a link to the installation instruction if you are curious,
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First I had to find a place to mount the sump. Humm....... First try behind my battery where the rear seat used to be... I drill the first 2 holes then Thankfully decide to check under the car to see if I'm clear to drill the top 2 holes.....i think so....so I go slow. Thank god I went slow as 1 of the holes comes out right on the rear brake line!! I guess this position will not work.....
after much fiddling.....of course I find the most logical place to put it that I should of thought of before! Duh!! Anyway, I drill and mount the sump....
On the oil side of the sump (the oil side) I place 3 washers so that it sits higher than the air side so that any air bubbles get pushed out per the instructions....
I mounted the manual valve on my passenger seat bracket next to the e-brake so that it is handy. Then up past the firewall, to the T-fitting.
Here is how I initially mounted the valve (years later after I painted the car I made a nicer mount...)
This is where I literally spent like 1 1/2 trying to figure out how to mount and plumb all this in a very confined space so that it fit and kinda looked decent. I finally had a stroke of genius and came up with the setup that you see here.
I decided to go with a remote oil filter head and oil cooler.
What you see is the Earls t-fitting; On the left is the incoming line from the accusump, on the right is the incoming oil from the oil cooler that passes thru the one-way check valve(brass part) so that oil does travel back into the oil cooler. The bottom part of the T-fitting is the one that goes back into the engine.
I had pressurized it with and air tank to 60psi the night before to check for any leaks. No leaks. Then I bleed the sump down to 8psi as the instructions told me to and left the valve in the open position.
I then added 2 quarts of oil to the engine.
Then I rechecked all my connections and directions and my logic.
crossed my fingers and started the car!
Vroom....vroom...oil pressure comes up as I look at the guage on the sump and it mimics my oil pressure gauge! Success!! As I rev the engine the gauge on the sump mimics the oil pressure gauge.
I let the car warm up.
rev the car to raise oil pressure
shut the manual valve and it held whatever pressure it had at the time I shut it. (70psi).
I then turn off the car.
wait 10 mins....
check the oil level....add a bit more oil...
check the gauge on the sump...still reading 70psi...cool. no leaks
I open the valve and watch my oil pressure gauge rise to 50psi! (with the engine off!) and the gauge on the sump lower as it pushes it's contents out to provide pressure.
I start the car now with oil pressure for the first time! and watch the sump refill itself now that the engine is on......!
Total Success!!!!
This is great! I'm so happy I did this what a ingenius peice of equipment!
The poor mans Dry sump!!
My car is now a WELL OILED MACHINE ! ha!
On to the next project!!!!!for all the pics of my oil systems...check the oil systems directory in the gallery section of my website or click here.------------------------------------------------------------
more info on the sump .
The Accusump provides that extra margin of protection that you need against engine damage caused by loss of oil pressure. Racing and high performance street engines by nature are put under a lot of stress by the high G-load situations that they are placed in. As oil in your pan sloshes about, your oil pump pickup can become uncovered, which causes a loss of oil pressure and sets the stage for severe engine damage. The Accusump provides oil during these times reducing the potential for damage.
The Accusump, the original automotive oil accumulator, is designed to provide the engine with oil pressure before the starter is even engaged.
An Accusump is a cylinder shaped aluminum storage container that acts as a reservoir of pressurized oil, to be released when there is a drop in the oil pressure.
The Accusump is connected to the pressure side of an engine's oiling system and is charged by the engines own oil pump.
Its simple, efficient design revolves around a hydraulic piston separating an air pre-charge side and the oil reservoir side.
On the oil side of the Accusump it has an outlet that goes into the engine's oiling system, controlled by a valve.
On the air side it's equipped with a pressure gauge and a Schrader air pre-load valve.
Pre-oilingIndependent studies have indicated that up to 50% of wear on engine components occurs during the engine start-up, before oil pressure can be established by the oil pump.
The Accusump can eliminate this "Cold start scuffing" by delivering oil under pressure before the engine is started!
There are two common conditions when your engine is without its vital fluid.
The first, as I'm sure you've heard before, is during the start-up procedure.
When you reach for that ignition your engine oil is sitting in your oil pan, maybe a little in your oil filter.
But there is none where your engine needs it the most, where those metal on metal surfaces are.
So as you turn that key and your engine starts to spin, your engine has no oil pressure, no supply of oil to those moving parts.
Until your engine is running and the oil pump is pumping, it has very little protection from this kind of metal on metal wear.
The second condition when your engine loses oil pressure is during an extreme condition when the oil pressure surges.
Such as everyday hard braking and turning on the street (and most certainly on the track), extreme vehicle angles such as off-road conditions or in marine applications when there happens to be rough conditions.
These are the same conditions that would spill your coffee out of your coffee cup.
During these times the oil in the pan moves away from the oil pick-up tube (the tube that the oil pump sucks the oil out of the oil pan through) and there is a sudden loss of oil pressure.
Again leaving your engine without that vital lubrication!
How Does an Accusump™ Work?
On initial start-up when the valve on the oil side is opened the pressurized oil is released into the engine and therefore pre-lubricating the engine prior to start-up.
The Accusump holds whatever oil pressure the engine has at the time that it is shut off.
After the engine is started and the oil pump has taken over, oil is pumped back into the Accusump.
This moves the piston back and pressurizes the Accusump until it equalizes with engine's oil pressure.
While driving, if the engine's oil pressure is interrupted for any reason, the Accusump releases its oil reserve again, keeping the engine lubricated until the engine's oil pressure comes back to normal.
This release of oil could last from 15 to 60 seconds, depending on the size and speed of the engine.
In racing or hard driving conditions, the Accusump will automatically fill and discharge when needed as you corner, accelerate and brake.
Operation....normal running engine,
Discharging !!
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You can also just buy the automatic electric valve!
that way you can put the sump and the valve anywhere.
Check out this clean instalation in a e3 M3
he used a 1 qt unit and put it all under the hood.
Here is the site(click on me)It's good example of an install for a street car...
Then repeat this x2000 times around the car....
now it's time to practice.... practice.... practice!!!
Love my Miller 130xp!
here it is a few years later, rust fixed and now with a cage....
All the pics HERE
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